Japanese cuisine is probably one of the lesser known of the Asian cuisines among African diners. Over the years, East Africans with refined palates are becoming more adventurous with their food, and ordering fatty tuna, octopus, paired with Sake, which is rice wine served in shot glasses.
A recent food, wine and Sake pairing dinner in Nairobi turned out to be an ode to Japanese food culture.
Under the Swahili Tree restaurant was the location for our Japanese culinary journey matched with global wines. The five-course meal was prepared by guest chef Tomoko Yakushigwa and sommelier Ivan West of Solovino wines.
Although Swahili Tree specialises in coastal flavours and dishes proprietor Emma Forbes said, “We also like to offer a variety of exciting experiences and cuisines to attract curious diners.”
At the start of the evening, Yakushigwa explained that the Japanese have a culture of eating out. The menu she chose had dishes that are typically served at a restaurant or offered at a home party, but not your everyday meals.
The meal began with tofu miso soup with a side salad of octopus, Wakame seaweed and pickled plums. This heart-warming broth with cubes of tofu was accompanied by a Ginjo Sake, clear fermented rice wine. Sake is the national beverage of Japan and is normally served in shot glasses. Our sake was slightly chilled which, I found, enhanced its semi-sweet earthy flavours.
Soup was followed by Tamari Sushi which are rolled rice balls topped with prawns, tuna and salmon. The soft, slightly fruity taste of a sparkly Prosecco wine was a good choice to pair with the delicate sushi flavours.
Next came the Kushi Seafood Katsu, a savoury dish of bread-crumbed and deep-fried fish, calamari and prawns. The crispy katsu came with a serving of a fresh Daikon radish salad, a delicious creamy simsim dressing and a dollop of zesty wasabi (Japanese horseradish) to spice up the course.
A chilled Ciabot Essenza Pinot Grigio white wine selected for the katsu worked beautifully and also because the day had been warm. West explained that he chose the dry white Italian wine for its pale-yellow colour, lovely aroma and crisp citrusy taste that does not overwhelm the subtle seafood dishes. It is also very drinkable on its own as an aperitif.
'Bird in the nest'
The fourth course was an artfully presented and very tasty bird in the nest. Inside a nest-shaped bed of crispy fried noodles were yakitori which are skewered, grilled chicken and leek pieces brushed with sweetened soy sauce. Also in the nest were lightly poached quail eggs and julienne green vegetables. For this course, we were served a chilled Backseberg Ella Pinotage Rose, a fresh-tasting dry wine of South Africa.
Dessert was Matcha ice cream made with green tea and sticky Dango rice dumplings stuffed with a sweet bean paste, then drizzled with a warm soy caramel sauce. The flavours were a balance of sweet and salty. I love Matcha ice cream and this one was homemade by Yakushigwa.
The Matcha Dango dish was paired with a Japanese Hakutsuru plum wine that has a delicious, deep, plummy and slightly tart taste, complimenting the unique flavours of the final course. You only drink a small glass of the syrupy plum wine, much like port wine that traditionally accompanies European desserts.
Yakushigwa likes to incorporate lots of fresh and seasonal ingredients in her cooking.
“Our food concept is something that is healthy and delicious and also gives new things to the people here.”
The serving sizes were modest but by the end of the fourth course, you are feeling quite full.
Locally available items
Most of the items she uses are locally available. The tofu (fermented bean curd) comes from soya beans grown in Western Kenya and Yakushigwa makes her own miso soybean paste for soups. White radish, okra, mushrooms, peppers and bean sprouts are other common vegetables in Japanese cooking, all farmed locally.
Yakushigwa explained that her dinner was more of a Japanese fusion instead of strictly following the traditional method of cooking. “What I like about Swahili Tree is that they are creative."
