50-HOUR TRIP: I was travelling both for leisure and business so I packed enough clothes to last me the duration of the journey and my stay in Zambia, and of course my work kits: Mobile phone, laptop and camera.
Long distance travel by train is still something of a marvel in East Africa, after the collapse of the longest running service, the Lunatic Express, that operated on the Kisumu-Mombasa and Nairobi-Mombasa routes for over 100 years, leaving only the Mukuba Express that runs from Dar es Salaam in Tanzania to Kapiri Mposhi in Zambia on the Tanzania-Zambia Railway Authority (Tazara), also called the Uhuru Railway.
In 2017, Kenya's standard gauge railway project revived the Nairobi-Mombasa service on the Madaraka Express.
Whereas the Madaraka Express takes six hours from Nairobi to Mombasa, it offers only basic coach seating, meals and drinks on both first and second class.
On the other hand, the train journey between Dar es Salaam and Kapiri Mposhi takes three days and there is hotel quality service for passengers in second and first class.
I recently took my first ride on the Mukuba Express to Kapiri Mposhi.
There is very little information available on what to bring. I was travelling both for leisure and business so I packed enough clothes to last me the duration of the journey and my stay in Zambia, and of course my work kits: Mobile phone, laptop and camera.
The journey takes approximately 46 hours between Dar es Salaam and New Kapiri-Mposhi, although my trip ended up taking over 57 hours.
It isn’t clear why we lost time along the way. The saving grace is that I booked a first class compartment, with two double-bunk beds and a built-in table for two.
Second class compartments accommodate up to six passengers. The rest of the coaches only offer seating like in a bus.
Here are tips on how to get through the journey with as little stress as possible:
Luggage
Carry enough change of clothes, luggage is not an issue since you get to keep it in your compartment throughout the journey.
Money
Carry as much cash as you can as there are no ATMs or mobile money service on the train.
With a restaurant, a bar and nearly three days on the train, you will definitely need money to buy food and water.
While still in Tanzania, you make payments in Tanzanian shillings, but upon crossing into Zambia, only Zambian kwachas are acceptable on the train.
Toiletries
Bring basic toiletries — shower gel, toothbrush, toothpaste, wipes and toilet paper. There are clean toilets, showers and sinks in each couch.
Snacks and drinks
Carry plenty of snacks and drinking water as there is no service between meals except the 24-hour bar.
Breakfast served at the first class compartment of the Mukuba Express. PHOTO | BEATRICE MATERU | NMG
Meals, at $20 per person, can be served in your compartment but service is slow. It is better to eat in the dining car where you can also watch a movie or series on TV.
A camera
The scenery is beautiful, with more than 20 tunnels and the 20 metres high bridge over the Mpanga River valley.
The railway cuts through the famous Selous game reserve. For 50 hours, the trip is great for socialising, relaxing or catching up with reading or watching movies.
There are armed police officers on board from both countries at all times.
