Nairobi-Mwanza road-trip through an MP’s eyes

The Rubondo rock islands in Mwanza. Photo/FILE

Being keen on the workings of the East African Common Market, I wanted to see how well the free movement of people and goods is progressing.

So last December, I set off for Mwanza from Nairobi, through Uganda and Rwanda.

The trip was 2,500 kilometres round Lake Victoria from Kisumu. The rough patches are at Burnt Forest to Eldoret, as well as towards Webuye on the Kenyan side.

In Uganda, the Kampala- Miytana stretch, about 70km is under construction. Thereafter, the other rough patches are from Katuna towards Kigali.

We are yet to make the border crossings seamless. 

The four border crossings and immigration procedures were generally the better experience from a service point of view, followed by Customs, and finally the police. 

The interface between Customs and the police to clear vehicles proved the least understood. 

In Uganda and Rwanda, at Katuna and again at Rusumo border points, I shuffled back and forth to several uni-huts to complete that transaction, including one totally unnecessary step, where you have to obtain a gate pass from a police officer, which turns out to be a piece of paper, torn out of an exercise book, with a signature on it.

You then surrender this prized document to the officer who lets you through the barrier. 

In Tanzania, the matter was dealt with in one office, making it easier for the customer.

At the Malaba border post, there is a boisterous atmosphere; dozens of brokers jostling to assist (or confuse) you in filling out papers.

You need copies of your vehicle’s log book. If you are not the owner as listed on the log book, you may be asked for authority/concurrence of the listed owner.

The staff on both sides were friendly and helpful. But if you do not intend to cross back using the same border point, there is confusion. 

Do you want back the original log book or a copy?

I insisted on the original, since I’d cross back to Kenya at Isebania. 

The officers said they’d make an exception for me because I’m a Minister. I wonder what happens to the other citizens.

After Mityana, the drive to Fort Portal, and onward to Katuna is excellent as the road is in very good condition.

Although, if you take the more direct routing towards Kabale, through Bushenyi to Ntungamo, you get 40 kilometres of gravel, with a couple of treacherous spots. 

In one spot, we found the culverts broken, and a large truck transporting cement stuck right in the middle of it.

The border crossing with the poorest service experience for me was undoubtedly Katuna in Rwanda/Uganda.

As you seek to exit from the Ugandan side, the police officers seem bored and uninterested.

The officer at the desk was busy reading tabloids, taking his time to complete his scan of racy pictures, prompting me to ask him if he actually intended to serve me.

Finally he enters the details from the Customs form into a large black counter book. 

And with elaborate officialdom, signs his signature on a piece of paper, gives it to me, and nods me on.

On the Rwandan side, the police officers continue the same unfriendly, unconcerned attitude.

Once the Customs folks have given you a document for the vehicle, it has to be registered by the police, who then issue you with a gate pass, yet another piece of paper with the officer’s signature on it.

We crossed from Rwanda to Tanzania at the Rusumo border post, and it stood out for many reasons, not the least of which is the limit of 10 tonnes on the bridge.

I was therefore surprised later to find trucks heavier than the recommended tonnage on the Tanzania side. Your guess is as good as mine as to how they crossed the Kagera river.

The immigration experience on the Rwandan was pleasant, complete with an officer assisting me calm my hungry and irritable five year old son, and another explaining that it was not necessary to stamp my East Africa passport since the stamp in it was valid. 

Documenting for the car continued with yet another entry to a large black counter book, and another piece of paper. Across the Kagera River in Tanzania, I got a culture shock!

The very friendly officers assure me, with impeccable Kiswahili, that I’m in the right office, but explain that I have to have copies of my passport. 

Which I have to obtain from the kiosk owner with the only printer/copier in the vicinity. I wonder what happens if she’s not open when you arrive. 

I get reprimanded for using the biro I found at the counter top without first having asked for it. I apologise. 

The information from the form is transferred into yet another black book, to which I’m required to also append my signature, and with that the officer opens the gate. The road is in excellent condition. 

Even the Diabohika-Bwanga gravel road is in fine shape and we make good progress. 

As we search for a filling pump to get diesel at Diabohika, one local passer-by observes within our hearing: “Maringo ya hawa waKenya!” (These Kenyans are just too proud). 

On the trip back, the Sirari/Isebania border crossing on the Tanzania/Kenya crossing had the most pleasant customer experience. It was a breeze to document and cross.

The staff were friendly and efficient on both sides. On the Tanzania side, all that was necessary was to deposit the Customs document with the officer at the gate. The immigration counter is fast and efficient.

On the Kenyan side, I was most impressed by the alertness of the police. 

Minutes after arriving, a friendly Officer Commanding Station found me at the immigration counter and I got a hearty “Jambo Mheshimiwa.” As I said, I was impressed.

Ndiritu Muriithi is a Kenyan Member of Parliament for Laikipia West, and Assistant Minister for Industrialisation.