I’m on the isle of Lamu, on Kenya’s coast, stepping into Subira House, a 19th century house that belonged to the liwali (governor) of Lamu and lovingly restored by the Aarts, the Swedish-Dutch couple who met on the island in the 1970s and have been together ever since. It’s a testimony to love.
Up on my rooftop room, I’m in a magical world. I have the privacy of the sky above with the turrets of Lamu Fort across the narrow alley. It was built around the same time by the sultan of Lamu to hold his might against the invaders in a bygone age.
